The Meat: Opened in February 2012 by chef Ollie Dabbous (Texture) and quickly garnered some excellent reviews to become the most talked about restaurant in London. It then went on in September to gain its first Michelin star. The last time I called, the next dinner reservation available was for September 2013. We went for lunch which was exceptionally good value at £26 for four courses (although the portion sizes are on the smaller side). The first thing that struck me about the restaurant was how informal and airy it felt. The design is quite hard & industrial – no linen, wrought iron screens, exposed bulbs. But, it didn’t feel pretentious (at least not too pretentious). The food was some of the most interesting experimentation that I have tried of late, presented in a remarkably clean fashion. I did however find some dishes a little underseasoned/too simple. That might however be my Indian taste buds speaking. The wines were fairly priced although the selection of new world wines was relatively small. The bar downstairs makes some good cocktails too, but there is better to be had in the area. I would definitely like to go back at some point soon
Perfect for: A new experience
Who to take: People who like innovative restaurants
Cuisine: Clean & Experimental
Price: £50 including wine and service on the set lunch menu. My guess for the à la carte menu would be around £75 with wine and service
Area: Fitzrovia
The verdict: 4*
Other’s verdict: Zagat – 26/30; 1 Michelin Star; Time Out – 4*; Toptable – 4.5
Personal favourite: Barbecued Iberico pork, savoury acorn praline, turnip tops, apple vinegar
Where to sit: Window seat
Reservations: Most definitely. Although the quickest way for a table may be a lucky walk-in
Website: http://dabbous.co.uk/
Address: 39 Whitfield Street, London, W1T 2SF
Telephone: +44 (0)207 323 1544
The Debrief 