Review: HKK

The Meat: The newest installment from the Hakkasan group, HKK opened its doors earlier this year next to Chrysan (the new Kaiseki Japenese venture by the group which shut down earlier this month). It is headed by Chef Tong Chee Hwee, the head chef at the original Hakkasan. HKK offers ‘bespoke Cantonese fine dining’ through its fifteen course tasting menu – the only menu on offer at dinner. I can’t say the meal started off quite on the right foot after I found some Cellophane in my first course. After some very low apologetic bows, things considerably improved. The menu is a dining experience with the requisite pomp and ceremony, and, as the waiter aptly put it, a commitment. As with any tasting menu, there are some dishes that are exceptional, some that are good and some that were just average. However, the exceptional dishes and the experience itself (putting aside the slightly bland decor) makes this the perfect restaurant for a celebratory dinner

Perfect for: A special occasion

Who to take:  Partner/colleagues with a business account

Cuisine:  Cantonese fine dining

Price: £95 for the fifteen course tasting menu. £130 per head with drinks and service. They do a cheaper eight course lunch menu at £48 but my guess is that would be quite a light lunch

Area: City

The verdict: 4*

Other’s verdict: Time Out – 4*; The Telegraph – 4*; The Independent – 7/10; Toptable – 4.6/5

Personal favourite: The roasted Peking duck was the best I have ever tried anywhere 

Where to sit: No preferences

Reservations: Yes

Website: http://hkklondon.com/

Address: Broadgate West, 88 Worship Street, London EC2A 2BE

Telephone: +44 (0)20 3535 1888

We ordered: 

Four treasure Iberico ham wrap

20yrs Gu-yue-long-shan drunken chicken

Lychee wood roasted Peking duck

Dim sum trilogy

Gai-lan, shemeji mushroom and lily bulb in XO sauce

Wok-fried lobster with pan-mee

Fillet of monkfish, Louise Roederer sauce

Toban of homemade pumpkin tofu

Jasmine tea-smoked Wagyu beef

Steamed razor clam with chilli, mui-choi glutinous rice

Pineapple fritter, salted lime jelly, vanilla ice cream

Selection of petit fours

 

Review: Tonkotsu

The Meat: With the recent surge of Ramen bars in London, the owners of Tsuru Sushi & Katsu opened Tonkotsu earlier last year on Dean Street. The menu is simple – three choices of Ramen (and one for the vegetarians), Gyoza and sides. But what the menu lacks in size, is comfortably made up for in quality. The noodles are made fresh at the restaurant (potentially, the first in London) and are very well balanced. The stock is rich, flavoursome and hits the spot perfectly on a winter’s day. All in all, there’s just a hearty, wholesome quality about the meal that transports you to a little Ramen bar in Asia. (Even if the ambiance is quite quintessentially Soho.)

Perfect for: A cold day

Who to take: Friends

Cuisine: Japanese - Ramen

Price: £20 with a drink

Area: Soho

The verdict: 4*

Other’s verdict: Time Out – 4*; Zagat – 19/30; Urbanspoon – 70%

Personal favourite:  Tonkotsu

Where to sit: Not up against the wall. Preferably upstairs.

Reservations: No reservations policy. It’s currently quite busy so you need to be prepared to queue.

Website: http://www.tonkotsu.co.uk

Address: 63 Dean Street, London W1D 4QG

Telephone: +44 (0)2074370071

We ordered: 

Tonkotsu - Rich, sea salt-based pork stock and thin noodles topped with slices of melt-in-the-mouth pork belly, half a seasoned soft-boiled egg, menma, bean sprouts and spring onions

Soho Ramen - Salt base, pork and chicken stock with medium think noodles topped with smoked haddock, pak choi, half an egg, menma and pspring onion

Review: Lucky Chip (Slider Bar) vs. The Player

The Meat: Opened in July 2011 selling out of a trailer in E8, expanded in to the The Seabright Arms in Bethnal Green in February 2012 and now occupies a permanent (most likely) residency at the Player in Soho. The menu has a choice of around 10 sliders, American for small burgers, including staples such as the Royale with Cheese as well as more inspired choices like the El Chappo (aged beef patty, smoked bacon, roasted jalapenos, blue cheese & aioli). You get to choose any combination of two for £10 or three for £14 if you’re really hungry. The burgers are amongst the best I have ever had anywhere – they aren’t particularly classic but they are juice-drippingly delicious. I’ve been at least 10-15 times since I first went and the embarrassing bit it is that wasn’t more than 2-3 months ago. The cocktails are great too as the Player is a Rushmore group (Milk & Honey, Danger of Death …) bar. I’d especially recommend the sharing cocktails section, even if you don’t really want to share it. The only negative is the terribly slow service. However, this seems to progressively be getting better.

Perfect for: Dinner & drinks to start your night (note that the burgers are quite messy though)

Who to take: Friends

Cuisine: Burgers

Price: £20 with a drink

Area: Soho

The verdict: 4* (The only reason it doesn’t get a 5* is the service)

Other’s verdict: Time Out – 4*; Evening Standard – 7.5

Personal favourite:  El Chappo & Pulled Pork

Where to sit: The booths at the back

Reservations: Only for groups 6+ and Rushmore members. Be prepared to wait on Thursday-Saturday night

Website: http://sliderbar.co.uk/

Address: 8 Broadwick Street, Soho, London W1F 8HN

Telephone: 020 7065 6841

We ordered: 

El Chappo – Aged beef patty, smoked bacon, roasted jalapenos, blue cheese & aioli

Pulled Pork – Pulled pork, coleslaw, pickles

The Apocalypso

Review: Lima

The Meat: London has been experiencing a surge of Peruvian restaurants of late. After a somewhat depressing meal at Ceviche, Lima was a welcome find. Opened by Peruvian chef Virgilio Martinez (Central in Lima) in June this year, this is the best Peruvian food I have had. That isn’t necessarily saying very much though as I’m quite inexperienced when it comes to Peruvian cuisine. We went for lunch and the restaurant felt light and airy due to the skylight. The food was particularly colourful but very tasty, the lamb having been cooked perfectly so that it falls apart in your mouth. I did however think that some of the ingredients on the menu are made to sound a bit more exotic than they really are. Having said that, I have already been back twice since my first visit and plan on doing so again in the near future.

Perfect for: Weekend lunch

Who to take: Anyone who enjoys South American cuisine

Cuisine: Peruvian

Price: The set menu for lunch/pre-theatre menu is exceptionally good value at 3 courses for £20. With drinks and service, you are probably looking at £30-40 per person on the set menu. The à la carte menu seemed considerably more expensive.

Area: Fitzrovia

The verdict: 4*

Other’s verdict: Toptable – 3.9; Time Out – 4*; The Telegraph – 3.5*

Personal favourite: Braised lamb shoulder, creamed lime and yellow potato, ghoa cress

Where to sit: Corner sofa table

Reservations: Yes

Website: http://www.limalondon.com/

Address: 31 Rathbone Place, Fitzrovia, London, W1T 1JH

Telephone: +44 (0)203 002 2640

We ordered: 

Sea bass causa with yellow potato puree, crushed avocados, red shiso

Scallop tiradito, yellow aji amarillo emulsion, umami salt, cassava powder

Duck magret crudo, algarrobo tree honey, queso fresco, red shiso

Hake and kholrabi, capers, maca root and piquillo compote

Braised lamb shoulder, creamed lime and yellow potato, ghoa cress

Dulce de leche ice cream, beetroot crust, chancaca honey

Review: Dabbous

The Meat: Opened in February 2012 by chef Ollie Dabbous (Texture) and quickly garnered some excellent reviews to become the most talked about restaurant in London. It then went on in September to gain its first Michelin star. The last time I called, the next dinner reservation available was for September 2013. We went for lunch which was exceptionally good value at £26 for four courses (although the portion sizes are on the smaller side). The first thing that struck me about the restaurant was how informal and airy it felt. The design is quite hard & industrial – no linen, wrought iron screens, exposed bulbs. But, it didn’t feel pretentious (at least not too pretentious). The food was some of the most interesting experimentation that I have tried of late, presented in a remarkably clean fashion. I did however find some dishes a little underseasoned/too simple.  That might however be my Indian taste buds speaking. The wines were fairly priced although the selection of new world wines was relatively small. The bar downstairs makes some good cocktails too, but there is better to be had in the area. I would definitely like to go back  at some point soon

Perfect for: A new experience

Who to take: People who like innovative restaurants

Cuisine: Clean & Experimental

Price: £50 including wine and service on the set lunch menu. My guess for the à la carte menu would be around £75 with wine and service

Area: Fitzrovia

The verdict: 4*

Other’s verdict: Zagat – 26/30; 1 Michelin Star; Time Out – 4*; Toptable – 4.5

Personal favourite:  Barbecued Iberico pork, savoury acorn praline, turnip tops, apple vinegar

Where to sit: Window seat

Reservations: Most definitely. Although the quickest way for a table may be a lucky walk-in

Website: http://dabbous.co.uk/

Address: 39 Whitfield Street, London, W1T 2SF

Telephone: +44 (0)207 323 1544

We ordered: 

Peas with mint

Mixed Alliums in a chilled pine infusion

Braised ling with coastal herbs

Grilled Mackerel, gooseberries, horseradish, sampphire

Coddled hen egg with woodland mushrooms and smoked butter

Barbecued Iberico pork, savoury acorn praline, turnip tops, apple vinegar

Barbecued lamb shoulder, runner beans & lesser calamint

Rabbit pie, carrots, peas, potatoes

Review: Bubble Dogs

The Meat: Gourmet hot dogs & champagne by chef James Knappett (Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley; Noma). The champagne list is extensive although only very few are available by the glass. The hot dogs are innovative and tasty but too small to be a meal in itself and too big to order a second. The venue is very small and the seats are uncomfortable to encourage a quick turnaround. However, the staff were all very friendly and happy to help. Overall, I felt slightly disappointed after all the hype. Then again, it might just be the hype that spoilt it for me. I will however return to try & (Kitchen table – a 19 seat space around the chef’s kitchen where he puts together a tasting menu for two sittings per day)

Perfect for: Informal work lunch; Casual evening dinner

Who to take: Friends

Cuisine: Speciality

Price: £25 for a hot dog, sides and a glass of champagne

Area: Fitzrovia

The verdict: 3*

Other’s verdict: Time Out – 3*; The Independent – 3*

Where to sit: The booths at the back which had back rests

Reservations: Reservations are only taken for groups of 6 or more. Be prepared to queue – another wonderful example of how no reservations restaurants seem to be doing so well of late

Website: http://www.bubbledogs.co.uk/

Address: 70 Charlotte Street, London W1T 4QG

Telephone: +44  (0)207 637 7770

We ordered: 

Sides: Tots; Sweet potato fries

Buffalo Dog: deep fried hot dog with spicy buffalo sauce, blue cheese, pickled celery and celery seeds

José: with salsa, avocado, sour cream and pickled jalepenos

Review: Clos Maggiore

The Meat: Classic French dining by 2 Michelin starred chef Marcellin Marc. They also have an encyclopedia-sized wine list with a very knowledgable sommelier ready to help. The ambience is unrivaled in the conservatory which has a glass retractable roof and the walls are covered with shrubs. In the winter, the fireplace means you never really want to leave – the perfect venue for a long 3 hour meal. A personal favourite that I’ve visited over 15 times in the last two years and has consistently outstanding food and service.

Perfect for: A special occasion (I’ve seen two people propose on different nights I’ve been there); Weekend lunch deal/Post theatre menu (exceptionally good value and quality – Three Courses for £19.50 / Three Courses plus 1⁄2 Bottle of Preselected Wine £23.50)

Who to take: Your partner

Cuisine: French

Price: £75 with wine and service à la carte. £30-£50 with wine and service on a deal

Area: Covent Garden

The verdict: 5*

Other’s verdict: Zagat – 25; Time Out – 3*; Toptable – 4.5

Personal favourite:  Caramelised honey-glazed Gressingham duck breast, roasted red plums, endive meunicre, ruby port sauce. I consistently order this pretty much every time I visit

Where to sit: The conservatory

Reservations: Required, especially for the weekend.

Website: http://www.closmaggiore.com

Address: 33 King Street, Covent Garden, WC2E 8J

Telephone: +44 (0)20 7379 9696

We ordered: 

Roasted duck foie gras & crisp confit duck leg with pain d’epice, roaster hazelnuts, poached peach

Seared wild scallops with salted cod brandade, herb vinaigrette

Slow cooked fillet of cornish cod, vermicelli & shell fish, iberico chorizo sauce

Caramelised honey-glazed Gressingham duck breast, roasted red plums, endive meunicre, ruby port sauce